From Waterloo Dumpling Inn to Culture Grub

This is a rebranding of the popular Waterloo Dumpling Inn Chinese restaurant in Baylis Road so Cooke's now has bamboo seats and gold fish in the window.

The kitchen at the back of the narrow building is offering a menu with a staggering 56 items. A good starter is vegetarian spring rolls (£2). Dumplings in soup stock (£4.50) comes in a large bowl with a china spoon. But you can use the chopsticks for the sweet & sour pork or chicken (£4.50) which comes with a glistening sauce.

Puddings include hot banana or apple fritter with vanilla ice cream (£2).

The one downside for such a small building is irritating smoke from fellow diners. If this bothers you you can choose to have your coffee at the Portuguese-run South Bank Grocers opposite or even choose a takeaway.

• Open 12 noon-3pm; 5-11pm.
• Culture Grub – 84 The Cut